Deconstructing traditional American dishes is one of the lede ideas behind the very popular new brasserie CENTRAL by chef Michel Richard in Washington, DC. Unless I told you, however, I think you’d be very hard put to identify the dessert at the right as a Banana Split. Yes, indeed, a deconstructed banana split worthy of Salvador Dali. Makes me yearn for the old-fashioned real McCoy as it used to be served at Bailey’s in downtown Boston. Bon Appetit?